The useful answerBlackout describes light control; cellular describes a construction that can add resistance to heat transfer. Start with the coverings you already have, then compare fit, installation and evidence for the exact product. Neither label guarantees a lower electricity bill.

Three options, three different starting points

This is a comparison of approaches, not a measured test of fabrics or shade brands. DOE describes cellular shades as insulating window attachments: their cell structure traps air. Its renter guidance also recommends using window coverings to manage sunlight and comfort. Actual performance depends on the product, fit, use, window and climate.

Compare the job before choosing a product
OptionPotentially useful forCheck before committing
Existing blindsTrying a different shading routine without buying new coveringsCoverage, condition and whether the slats can block direct sun
Blackout curtainsRoom darkening and flexible fabric coverageWidth, drop, edge gaps, rod support and opening clearance
Cellular shadesA fitted window attachment with insulating cellsExact measurements, mounting permission and product-specific performance evidence

A blackout curtain can still leave light and air gaps around the edges. A cellular shade can be light-filtering rather than blackout. Choose the combination of construction and light control you actually need.

Begin with a no-purchase check

Note which windows receive direct sun when the room becomes uncomfortable. Try closing the existing covering before that period, then assess light, comfort and usability. Keep a simple record over comparable days instead of attributing one temperature reading to the covering.

If the current covering is broken, missing or prevents normal window use, raise that specific issue with the property manager. An operating problem may matter more than a new fabric. If the existing arrangement meets your needs after a schedule change, you may not need another product.

Closing a covering affects daylight and the view as well as heat. Consider whether you would actually keep it in the intended position. A shade that is always raised will not provide the same service as one used according to its intended operating pattern.

Measure the installation, not just the glass

Write down the opening width, height, available mounting depth and obstacles such as handles or an air conditioner. For curtains, include the rod and the space needed to draw the panels aside. For shades, check whether the product expects an inside or outside mount. Use the exact manufacturer’s measurement instructions before ordering.

In a rental, confirm permission for new fittings. A “no-drill” label does not establish that a particular mount can safely support the product on your window. Check its permitted surfaces, load and installation method. Keep required exits, ventilation and heating equipment unobstructed.

Also compare practical costs: the covering, hardware, installation and the possibility that it will not fit your next home. A removable curtain that suits an existing rod may be easier to reuse; a closely fitted shade may be specific to this opening. That is a portability tradeoff, not a universal value ranking.

Ask for energy evidence that matches the product

Look for a recognized performance rating for the exact window attachment, where available. DOE describes the Attachments Energy Rating Council’s work on rating these products. A general claim about cellular construction is not a certificate for every shade, and a curtain’s ability to block light is not a measured electricity saving.

We do not apply a fixed savings percentage to the retailer’s curtain listed below. We have no independent thermal test of that product in your window. The practical comparison is whether its dimensions, mounting and light-control function solve the problem you identified.

For a purely illustrative budget, a $90 improvement would take three years to recover if it genuinely saved $30 per year. The $30 is an assumption, not a prediction for curtains or shades. If you cannot support a savings estimate, evaluate comfort and light control directly rather than presenting a payback as established.

Our decision rule

Use existing blinds first when they can address the timing of direct sun. Compare blackout curtains when room darkening and flexible coverage are priorities. Investigate cellular shades when the fit and installation work and you can examine evidence for the specific product.

The shopping section offers one curtain example, with dimensions and compatibility checks. It does not represent a tested winner over cellular shades. Continue with our rental window-covering guide for the broader planning process.

Choose your next step

Continue with the question that matches your next decision:

Shopping options for this guide

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NICETOWN lined blackout curtains (grey, two 52 x 63 inch panels)

An option for a window where daylight or privacy is the problem. The selected grey set contains two lined polyester panels, each 52 inches wide and 63 inches long, with grommet tops. Measure the window and compare the required overlap before choosing a size.

Before buying: Check rod diameter, support capacity and the selected size before ordering; get permission for new fittings in a rental. Keep ventilation, heaters and required exits clear. Follow the current care label. Darkening the room does not establish a specific temperature drop or electricity saving; these depend on the window, installation and use.

View NICETOWN lined blackout curtains (grey, two 52 x 63 inch panels) at Amazon.com (opens in a new tab)

These are shopping options, not hands-on test results. Check the retailer for current specifications, price and availability.

Sources & further reading

Numerical examples are illustrative unless explicitly described as measured. This guide does not claim hands-on product testing. Read the methodology and editorial disclosure.